Cheticamp |
We spent the first several days of our visit to Cape Breton
in Cheticamp, one of two French Acadian districts on the island. Cheticamp is the gateway to Cape Breton
Highlands National Park and has been a fishing town since its founding in the
late 1700s. Until the middle of the 20th
century, Cheticamp was only accessible by ship and its inhabitants had a
difficult way of life. They grew or made
almost everything they needed. The only
employment was the fish company that paid them in company store credits to buy
stoves, utensils, musical instruments and such.
The Acadian culture is very communal and is filled with simple
amusements, mostly around music. We
visited a small museum about “La-Careme”, which is basically a mid-Lent party
dating back to the 5th century where people dress up in elaborate costumes
and go door-to-door trying to fool their neighbors about their identity. Cheticamp seems to be the only place
La-Careme is still celebrated.
Cheticamp is also a center of rug hooking, which started as
a necessity to help make their homes comfortable, but grew into an art form
much sought-after by wealthy city dwellers.
Some of the most elaborate rugs contain 500 colors of yarn (each hand
dyed separately) and over 1,500,000 individual stitches. Cheticam Museum
It was fun meeting several people with our last name—very
common here and throughout Acadian Canada and Louisiana. The vast majority of people named LeBlanc are
descended from one Daniel LeBlanc, who landed in Nova Scotia about the time the
Pilgrims landed in Plymouth. Like most
French Canadians he had a huge family of 15 or so children and subsequent
generations of that kind of breeding resulted in a virtual army of LeBlancs (my
father was one of 10 children and my mother one of 18). Like most of my
generation, we stopped well short of those numbers, so the danger of LeBlancs
overpopulating the globe is diminishing.
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